Damselfrau Creates Masks

Damselfrau Creates Masks

Damselfrau is Maghild Kennedy, an artist from Norway. To us, at Mimi Berlin, she is most known for the masks she creates. The masks are mostly created with found materials and sewn by Damselfrau’s hands. If you need to label this work you could say it’s textile art.  Her work was on exhibit at Moba 13 in Arnheim and at various venues in Londen, where Damselfrau works and lives. In her exhibitions the masks are often shown by itself, they become faces that way.

(Images courtesy of Damselfrau) Continue reading

Obsession

Just by looking at this photo we get an eerie feeling. Why? You ask of us. Well the pink garments you see are women’s lingerie owned and collected by a man. Nothing weird about that, you say. True. But Mr Boeije collected about 1000 (!) kilo’s of women’s undergarments for over 30 years, and that’s on show in dark cellars. Fetish galore!!
993760_555445334506358_866804892_nAfter Mr Boeije passed away Mrs Boeije granted designers Spike Spijker en Mies Splinter permission to do something with this unique, vintage, collection. They decided to transform the historic cellars of Arnhem into wunderkammers, filled with lingerie. They turned the labyrinth-like underground rooms into a “metaphor of the fetishist mind”, as they say themselves. We really hope Mrs Boeije agrees with this concept…..
fDSC00102_B-785x521(photo’s courtesy of Spijker en Splinter)

Obsession can be visited up to the first of August 2013
Historische Kelders, Arnhem
Oude Oeverstraat 4A
Tue/Sun  12.00 – 17.00

MoBA 13 / NRC Handelsblad

In March 2013 Newspaper NRC Handelsblad presented a contest: design an apron. Today we attended the opening of the exhibition showing the best results of this contest. A professional jury, Lidewij Edelkoort, Joyce Roodnat, Klaas Gubbels, Hanneke van Zuthem and Milou van Rossum, selected 70 aprons (out of more than 400) to be on show at the Hemelrijk passage in Arnhem (daily from 11:00/18:00) during the MoBA 13 event in Arnhem. Read about the contest on NRC fashionblog (in Dutch)schort_nrc-1
Milou van Rossum, fashion journalist at NRC Handelsblad was present to open the exhibition.

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The 6 winning aprons of the NRC Handelsblad contest are on show at the St. Eusebius Church in Arnhem.
eusebius-17eusebius-18eusebius-16eusebius-15 eusebius-19

(photocredits: Mimi Berlin)
See more of the Make Believe exhibition at the St. Eusebius Church
Read more of the Obsession exhibition at the historic cellars of Arnhem

Rüpert’s must-see of the month: MoBA 13

Moba 13 arnhemThe fifth edition of MoBA started last weekend. MoBA stands for Mode Biënnale Arnhem. It is the biggest cultural fashion event in the world, which takes place in Arnhem. This edition Lidewij Edelkoort, world famous trend forecaster, debuts as head curator and I have to say she did a marvelous job. Despite all shallow financial resources and troubles in the board, she managed to put out a exhibition that is worth going to. A Must see!

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Chin-Chin, Rüpert.
(Photocredits Rüpert von Rom)

Aprons

Lidewij Edelkoort, trendwatcher extraordinaire, recently presented her thoughts on the upcoming fashion biennale (Moba 13). Ms Edelkoort is the curator of this Biënnale held in Arnhem, The Netherlands, she chose the provocative and evocative theme of: “Fetishism in Fashion”. Amongst many other ideas she told us about the apron, or rather; the secret of the apron. According to Ms Edelkoort its the superior fetish garment. Interesting! 


1971, movie poster Wat zien ik aka
Business Is Business (via movieposterdb)We are aware of the fact that people like to dress up in an apron to clean the room bare-assed with a plumeau, or something like that. We understand it origins seen in a psychological perspective, but fashion wise? Being a bit on the prudent side, we never thought of the apron that way. As always we like to dig (a little bit) deeper, we found vintage sewing patterns to check on how the apron evolved into the cliché sex-garment. Please have a look at what we came up with, what do you think?

First part of the 20th century


Pictorial Review. Minute Maid Apron. ca. 1920s; This apron is as demure & dainty as a “minute maid”, yet it is large enough to be thoroughly pracitcal. Pleats, stitched down to give a trim effect about the hips & across the front, are released halfway down, rippling out into a pert flare. Patch pockets are cleverly fitted in between the pleats. Tie strings fasten the apron at the back. (no date – no pattern number.) (via vintagepatters)


Sewing Pattern Ladies Dress and Apron 1930’s DuBarry 1431B Bust 36 (via)


Advance 4312 – 1940s Bib Apron Set – Scallops and Chevrons (via serendipityvintage)


Simplicity 4585 Vintage 1940s Misses’ and Women’s Apron: The top edge is softly gathered to yoke and tie ends. A convenient patch pocket trims the right front side. Style I is without the bib and is trimmed with rick-rack at the lower edge. A dainty print with a bordered-edge brightens Style II. the suspenders of Style III are finished with a ruffle. (via)
 


1950s Apron Pattern by Advance (via tangerine boutique)
 


Suitable for decorative stitching
(via pzrservices)
 

Vintage sewing pattern: 1950s hostess blouse and apron (via)

Okay, here’s what we think, it isn’t that hard to figure out; in the twenties it started already, women were to entertain the husband. Hard, manual labor was done by the hired staff so the lady of the house could wear a “demure & dainty” apron. In the 1940’s the larger Bib Apron, similar to the apron worn by little girls in the 1900s, (think Little house on the prairie) was very popular.Fabric was less available due to WWIIso daytime dresses had to be well protected. In the 1950’s the invention of several home appliances, like washing machines, made house chores even more easy for women. Entrez the Hostess apron (or Cocktail or Party apron) unsuitable for work and put on for show only. We think the fifties were the heyday of the apron. In this era they became really sexy (but that’s only our opinion, based on these sewing patterns, which are leftovers because they are all still for sale)

More useful aprons called Cobbler aprons were available as well in the fifties. They had large pockets to store your garden tools or pots in.

1950’s Advance 5992 Vintage Sewing Pattern American Designer Jeanne Campbell Blouse: Wrap halter apron dress. Capri pants. Long or three-quarter sleeve blouse. From the New York Times Designer Series; designer Jeanne Campbell.
 (via)


Butterick 7960 Vintage Pattern Swirl Like Back Button Large Pockets Coverall Dress Apron Bust 36 (via damngoodvintage)


(via pzrservices)

Simplicity Pattern 4492 Vintage 50s Cobbler Apron, Half Apron and Potholder + Poppy Transfer, dated 1953. This includes; “Simple to Make” cobbler apron features pockets at lower edge. Tie ends of View 1 and 2 are sewn into front darts. Bias trims scoop neckline, armhole, pocket and back closing edges, View 1. View 2 has higher neckline. Applique and embroidery detail pockets and pot holder. When apron is made of net, waistband, tie ends and trim may be of satin ribbon. (via vintagepatterns)

Moving on to the second part of the 20th century


Aprons for entertaining purposes only


Simplicity Pattern 6809 Vintage 60s Misses Aprons – Fabric or Vinyl, dated 1966. This includes; Misses’ Aprons: The apron V. 1 with tie ends stitched in front darts has pockets, lowered round neckline and back button closing. Apron V. 2 made of transparent or coated vinyl fabrics as well as other fabrics has back button closing, square pockets, armholes and neckline finished with grosgrain ribbon. (via vintagepatters)


Simplicity 5097; ©1972; Mens’s and Misses’ Set of Aprons (Transfer for Appliques Included): The men’s apron V. 1 and 2 with self fabric tie ends and neck strap has cobbler type pocket encased in fold over braid and trimmed with applique. V. 1 has breast pocket. V. 2 has contrasting pocket. The misses’ apron V. 3 and 4 gathered to waistband has self fabric tie ends. Short apron V. 3 has contrasting cobbler type pocket encased in fold over braid and trimmed with applique. Long apron V. 4 with self fabric bib and buttoned suspenders is trimmed with rick-rack, embroidered braid, or ribbon and crochet type lace insertion. (via vintagepatterns)

Less sewing patterns for aprons were made in the sixtiesand zeventies. In the 1970s the apron was more a romantic, ruffled dress than anything else. (again, think Little house on the prairie) The pattern above also includes the apron for men; the plastic, quirky ones like we have today, available mostly in gadget stores and worn by women as well.


Your f
etish out in the open
(via ifood).
Macho man apron (via drinkstuff)

 

Arnhem Mode Biennale 2011

Arnhem Mode Biennale 2011

amber_arnhem
Photography by: Anuschka Blommers, Niels Schumm & Uta Eisenreich
Arnhem Mode Biennale IV is named AMBer.
AMBer shows that fashion is more than a piece of clothing. At the main location, an industrial plant from AkzoNobel, you will discover that disciplines like music, photography and film are part of the inspirational world of fashion as well.In the Museum for Modern Art Arnhem, the exhibition Get Real/ Real Self curated by artist/ researchers Joke Robaard and Giene Steenman shows the origin of everyday garments such as the T-shirt, the parka and the trousers.In the city center of Arnhem, the Gele Rijdersplein forms the starting point of the city program consisting of a city exhibition and a shopping and expo route.”(read more Arnhem Mode Biennale IV: “AMBer”)
Click link below to watch the artistic director of the 4th edition of the fashion biennale explain his concept
AMBer From 1 June – 3 July 2011. Entrance, €15,- Tickets are available online or in Arnhem; MMKA, Velperweg 76 or at the VVV office
While in Arnhem, be sure to visitThe Mirror has Two Faces’ at the Museum of Modern Art Arnhem.”An Alice-in-Wonderland-like exhibition about the fashion designers Truus and Riet Spijkers”.